The latest issue of British Vogue, including 40 well-known women across the industry, is just the cherry on top of the stylish and dynamic covers the magazine celebrated under Edward Enninful’s leadership. Last year, the news of Enninful’s departure sent shockwaves through the fashion world. The editor-in-chief of British Vogue has been a part of many fashion publications since the age of 18. In contrast, Anna Wintour of American Vogue has worked at Harper’s Bazaar for a few years and has since been at the pinnacle position at Vogue.
Since the release of British Vogue’s cover, social media users have stated their opinions and have revived the conversation about how American Vogue seems to be falling behind on its impressive covers. In 2020, Wintour was named worldwide chief content officer at Conde Nast and global editorial director of Vogue, with full responsibility for all the titles underneath. Enninful, Vogue’s first black and gay editor, was hired in 2017 by the chairman and former chief executive of Conde Nast International. A fashion insider reports that the signing off on Enninful was great for Wintour’s credentials.
Wintour addressed the lack of diversity within the Vogue staff by saying, “I want to say plainly that I know Vogue has not found enough ways to elevate and give space to black editors, writers, photographers, designers and other creators … We have made mistakes, too, publishing images or stories that have been hurtful or intolerant.”
Some journalists believed this statement was a ploy during the Black Lives Matter movement in 2020. Also, it is reported, “Vogue was forced to deny a rift between Wintour and Enninful after she allegedly left him in tears by taking the plum spot next to the late Queen Elizabeth on the front row at Richard Quinn’s runway show for London Fashion Week in February 2018.” This was the Monarch’s first— and last —appearance at a fashion show and a huge opportunity that Enninful seemed blindsided by.
With Wintour at the helm of American Vogue for 36 years, people are starting to notice that American Vogue is falling behind in its cover quality. This can be seen in their lack of creativity and eye-catching photography in their editorials. Alongside British Vogue, Vogue China, Singapore and Korea’s editorial shoots and covers have shown to be an innovative step in the right direction for fashion photography. Vogue China especially, utilizes vast landscapes in their backgrounds, unconventional artistic graphics and a cohesive color palette — to name a few things American Vogue is artistically lacking.
Personally, as a consumer of American Vogue who used to have a subscription a few years ago, when I received the physical covers, it felt like there could have been a lot more done in various elements to make the cover more striking. I think American Vogue has prided itself on having a noticeable cover that people can pick out, regardless if they are into fashion or not. That being said, the cover layout has been the same in recent years; the name VOGUE is centered at the top with the featured individual in the middle, and text and the bottom and sides.
“When it came to my last issue, I knew the cover would be dedicated to women. Of course! Women have shaped British Vogue for close to 108 years now, and have certainly informed every moment of my six-and-a-half-year tenure here, to say nothing of leading and guiding me through my entire life,” Enninful noted in his final editor’s letter. The news of the editor-in-chief’s departure shocked the fashion world last year. Enninful’s replacement, Chioma Nnadi, will be helming British Vogue and the first Black woman appointed to the role. Enninful has previously called Nnadi “a brilliant and unique talent with real vision who will take the publication to ever greater heights.”
While the future of British Vogue can be uncertain with a new editor-in-chief, there is much to be explored within the domain of creativity. I can say I am excited to see the new leadership in British Vogue and hope that American Vogue can follow in their footsteps in some aspects in the future since there is a lot to be further explored in fashion creativity.
