The internet slowed down for just a bit this past week as Maison Margiela’s Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show had all eyes around the world peeled for its latest collection. The model crept from a fog-filled alleyway that seemed to be out of the world of horror. Those watching were mesmerized not only by the dark and story book outfits they adorned but the haunting skin that each model featured. As darkness swirled around the models, their faces reflected something different entirely. Dark, colorful eyelids, bright orange cheeks and finished off with a glasslike coat making their faces resemble that of porcelain dolls. And the visionary behind it is none other than Pat McGrath. 

While hundreds of recreations of the notable look have been circulating the internet, there is only one thing that seems to be missing and that is the acknowledgement of Pat McGrath herself. Left out whenever there is a trend that graces our screens is usually the story of how it got there in the first place. But as Pat McGrath makes a legendary walk onto the current beauty scene, no one seems to be able to distinguish her from her company at all despite her many accolades and achievements over the years. These include being named in Time 100 “The Most Influential People” and having her looks featured in Vogue. She has worked with countless designers and celebrities alike bringing visions to life for decades with a momentous career beginning in the ‘80s where she worked with renowned creatives, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. She is nothing new in the world of Haute Couture, but nonetheless, her presence has been greatly overlooked.

After the latest success of her recent work with Margiela and the countless recreations done across social media, McGrath took to Instagram live to recreate the now iconic “glass skin” look where she let over 12,000 people get a peek at her secrets. Instead of brushes or beauty blenders, she uses her fingertips or “pats touch” to blend eye shadows and highlights, but the secret to that infamous skin had been using the Freeman Beauty peel off masks, followed by a concoction that they sprayed on using an airbrush. 

As people finally begin to acknowledge her influence, I realized what was happening. As fashion continues to make its mark in the 21st century, the shows have become the main center of attention instead of the clothes themselves. This show was a pivotal point because McGrath showed the fashion world what few consider, which is how important all the components of “a look” are. People are being forced to realize the artistry that goes into creating something of this magnitude.

As a result, in the future, more shows will follow suit and bring more glamor to other features of models. There is a major disconnect between designers, audiences and those behind the scenes who help bring the artistry and passion to the runway.